Around Mt Etna the active Volcano

Living at the foot of this fascinating active volcano meant it was only a matter of time before we were acquainted.  This is our first road trip encounter with Etna.

The local Senori in Bianca Villa, a classic Sicilian village sight - old guys talking smack 

It's tall at 3349 metres (10,990 foot). Comparable in height to Mt Tasman & Dampier in New Zealand's Southern Alps. Mont Blanc of France is the tallest Mt in Western Europe. Though Mt Etna is the biggest and baddest volcano in Europe, almost in the world. The Greeks believed that Vulcan the God of fire & metalwork had his workshop there and that Cyclops resides in a cave on its slopes. Etna's summit constantly smokes and now and then it has a volcanic fit. Lava flows have threatened and swallowed some small towns that bravely take advantage of the rich volcanic soil.

On Etna you're able to hike, dine, cable car (up to a 2500m height) and ski. In the months of January and February Etna's ski fields open. The girls are hoping for a few good days snowboarding or sledging at least.

Around this time of year (December) most travellers are hiking Etna, though as Brig had already dislocated his hip, that idea had to be shelved. Instead, we opted for the more scenic route visiting the towns and castles surrounding it. After hearing the fame of Italy's Pistachio nuts, a  key destination was Bronte being the home of these tasty things.

 Paterno was the first town on our wee map though didn't have huge appeal as we drove through looking a bit dirty, but here's the kids in Biancavilla  Piazza, which was first settled by Albanian refugees.

 We had lunch in Adrano, a Sicilian classic - Aracini a fried rice ball with gooey mozzarella, beef & peas in the centre (can't wait long enough for a pic). Then it was into Museo di Adrano. This was another norman Castello well preserved and converted into a Museum.

The kids do pretty well in Museo, where it is again stressed with two kids to always hold their hands and we are closely followed around by staff. On the bright side it often serves as a free guide. Milan's Kindergarten in Hamilton were big on offering children pottery and before we left she was making containers & wall pieces. This Museo held ceramic pieces from 2200 BC, she was so taken by it.

Miss Milan super keen on the pottery she saw

When we arrived in Bronte it was 2pm meaning all the shops were shut. They customarily close throughout Sicily between 1- 4pm, unless it's a shopping mall. Hence there were no fresh vibrant green pistachio gelato's for us, but we grabbed local sweets and pesto. 

A Bronte Pasterria, pistachio packs line the wall.

Around we kept going an hour later stopping in Randazzo, a beautiful town set in the mountains with Etna's black volcanic rock used to make the streets roads and city monuments.

Randazzo -  hard not to smile with kisses like his.

At the end of our round trip we couldn't pass up another quick stop at Taormina. Often when you talk with people you say where are you from and the comment that follows is often .. ah bella '.. dah dah dah. It's a purely genuine one though when you offer the 'ah bella Taormina'.

It's probably the Island's most chic and now tourist dominated spot. There's plenty of room for all and we have the blessing of being 45mins away. In September they host the Taormina filmfest where the stars come to play. We did the descent thing making another stop & sampling the gelati. Now with the cooler December weather, swimming is temporarily shelved allowing time to enjoy other parts of this neat Island.

Team on three, Carlos with Chocolatte, Milan - Fragola, Brig - Pistachio. Squadra su tre!

kids play with Italian toys

We planned and packed slightly better this time round. Correct seasonal clothing, medical supplies and kids play essentials. Cream of tartar for play dough, blocks, farm animals, cars, costumes, tons of art supplies and a hairdressing & medical set.

Their hair saloon - parrucchiere, vuoi capelli lisci oppure ondulati

As we settled in, something new would usually come out relevant to what we were doing. A magnifying glass was packed in but only Milan had enough courage to chase the lizards and massive ants trying to collect them.
The kids were also into making "big big castles" with wooden blocks and containers. They were really taken by the old castles, so they'd often be creating what we'd earlier seen or been a part of.


They soon were making rock pools from a fresh batch of classic play dough. I couldn't find food colouring (code for - couldn't understand & translate correctly) so we had a plain white batch with glitter.

Our first italian playdough batch - Carlos tells me 'bongo' is the Italian word for it .. ok

The play dough recipe is a treasure from Emma an awesome campus creche teacher.

Its simple & it stays soft forever.
   

2 cups Flour, 2 cups boiling water, 1/2 cup salt, 4 Tablespoons Cream of Tartar, 2 Tablespoons Oil  Mix together the flour, salt, oil, and cream of tartar  - Add the boiling water and colours,  Mix and kneed on floured surface, adding more flour as necessary -  Enjoy. 

Milan's rock pool and Carlos's cake x

Milan has forever been called our principessa from the must watch movie 'Life is Beautiful'.  It picked up the Academy award for Best Actor with the fantastic Roberto Benigni. Lately they've even been talking of him running for President.  So this princess of ours continues to have many princess like interests emerge. Initially we didn't know how to cater to it all. Brig would look to me, I'd look elsewhere thinking "you knew I was a tomboy".

Because of our parental love, we've taken to it all and we are now trying our best to accomodate our daughters taste. Dress ups, heels, accessories, pink galore,... babies. We even all hunt about finding her lip balm for outings.

 

They're forever dotting in each other - Brigs putting a plait in harakeke Milan will call it

We've also shifted our time for bed from 7:30pm to ??? as it would never work here. Italian's eat & get together late, they'll organise something for 9pm. Sure enough we are eating around 10pm and the kids are still running about at 11pm. One night while playing with their Argentine friend Bautista, the drive home was dominated by talk  of how cool his 'Toy Story' bowling set was. Unsuprisingly, the following morning they wanted to make their own bowling set. I played along as they'd kept to their guideline of staying in bed 'until the sun comes up'.

Their artwork attached to water bottles made the perfect el cheapo set, that they really enjoyed. Everyone buys their water here. I've never felt bad for drinking the tap water, though you can actually taste the difference when drinking the 'Levissima' its like an Italian Evian. One morning Carlos refused his tap water saying it tastes dirty, you are your fathers son Carlos Xx

Double Dipping finding church in Sicily

As Church is a important aspect of our family life, we had the desire to find our church branch in Catania. We're members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter day Saints, commonly know as Mormons. Our beliefs have a bearing on the little and large things we do and while we are very imperfect, our children are a wonderful reminder for us to continue trying. That said Milan & Carlos had been asking and asking for church. After the first meeting in church they attend primary & nursery. There you'll find other kids, songs, great teachers and a child focused message.

We found it! 10minutes from where we live.

So now that we were unpacked (I'm way behind on these blogs, this was really our 2^nd week here in late Sept)  and we a had a car and some basic directions, we felt more than ready. Brig allowed an hour for getting lost (going off past experience), though the co-pilot figured that was a bit much.

Our car the first week we arrived.. she still only has three hubcaps.
Milan named our little Benz - Jewel. The kids like 'Rio'

When we lived in Rovigo our closest church was Padova. A nice place but it took 1hr 20mins to get there. Here in Catania we found it in less than 30 mins. We also learned that there are two wards - fist pump! perfect options for sleep-ins - Why not give that a second fist pump!! It turned out we'd timed it for General Conference though. That meant the kids would have to wait another week for their classes, but we got to meet some wonderful people. We learned the two wards here were an English speaking and Italian speaking branch …. stop it.

The Italian ward, a family were leaving so we managed this shot

There are around 180 members in the Italian and 40 in the English. A neat family from the States, invited us back to their place. They've been here for 2 years as a part of a normal 3 year Navy post. They live near the Sigonella Naval base, just 10mins out of town where they have everything - gym, shopping, cinemas. Sweet huh.

Walking into such a warm group of people has made us feel like double dipping – attending both wards/branches could be the go. The icing on the cake, was that we got lent a Navman ... Bellisima!

The likelihood of death on the roads of Sicily had now been reduced.... slightly Xx

Those platforms



Carlos at La Grattugia

If its hot, its still summer right .. ? we thought so anyway. When the temperature is still between 25-30 degrees, it was hard to support the notion that summer was over. We were told it was as we looked for swimming gear ... floating rings and wings for the kids, rock shoes for all. No ce estate fine –  no its the end of summer. Sure, Okay

Milan's thinking "this is what I was talking about Papa"



This was part of a club, now there's just the rocks underneath it. Around the year its
a hot spot apparently for Passegiata - the practise of walking to see others & be seen.

There on the Riviera Ciclopi there are these wooden platforms that take you from land to sea, over the black volcanic rocks. They filled the coast line, while most said 'Privato', people were kind enough to let us use them. There were often these cool lounging portions on most of them.. perfect for 'taking the sun' – tanning. In Aci Trezza centre even a few night clubs functioned off them.

So when we saw them all coming down, .. we were puzzled.  Our Rugby friend was also taking the one at his restaurant down explaining because of maintenance they don't stay after summer. We'd just enjoyed a day off his and thought why not. 

Crews of 2-3 would bring down a platform in a day

Sure enough though, literally few days later the storm came – lightning show and all. Huge waves pounded the coast.  Here's a shot after the storm when one of the ladders from a platform was being washed away. Milan spotted it from inside the house, all excited I had to fight the urge to jump in and try to life save that plank of wood. Clearly, I must have been craving a challenge. Our first time - prima volta  it was littered with hurdles. We had knocked out teeth, nil language and a province with a medical system that kept giving me the finger.

The stray wooden platform

Brig (the voice of reason) was out at training at the time, Milan liked the idea of me getting in, though Carlos I'm sure wouldn't have. Over here they call it figlio di mama - a mama's boy which we still think is precious. Anyway summer maybe over, so we'll see what Autumn will bring .. xx

Amiamo Aci's

I went house hunting on the back of a motorbike – of course minus the helmet, with a cool club manager. First we viewed this place which is where we stayed for 3 night's, note the amenities. Yes up there is both the kitchen and laundry, compact european living.

She was making castle after castle as we stayed 2 mins from Castello Normano

That staircase had its work cut out for it.
Brig did Milan's plaits, doing each others hair is just one of their things x  

The space felt smaller than our car, so I made a rule with the kids that only mama went up there for safety. We heard it groan as Brig was on it a few times, as it turned out, it was helpful for independence. It seems our Italian born son was also born with the appetite of a Italian man. In this tight kitchen / laundry there was no chance of any Carlos action at my ankles!

The kids became more odd in photos as the day rolled on.
At day 4 day we were still time adjusting

We did love the location – Aci Castello, is one of the nine Aci's of the Rivera Cilopi. The Norman's built a Castle in the 11^th century (for a time it was a prison) out of the ambundant black lava stone.

According to legend, the body of the young shepherd was killed by Cyclops - Poliphemus for loving someone that had earlier caught his eye. The body was dismembered into nine parts, upon which the nine Aci-cities were built. They are Aci Bonaccorsi, Aci Castello, Aci Catena, Aci Platani, Acireale, Aci S. Filippo, Aci S. Antonio, Aci S. Lucia and Aci Trezza. This stretch of Sicily’s Eastern coastline is also known as the Cyclops’ Coast.

We regularly had these mythological stories relayed by San Gregorio rugby management and many of the rugby boys had an appreciation for myths and legends of the past. There was a great appreciation of our surroundings. Generally we've found a slower more relaxed life in Sicily, even in dress, especially compared with our last Province in the north east of Italy - Rovigo. They'd give us these terrible looks when Brig would go somewhere in say shorts. It was like we were damaging their surroundings!

Great volcanic rocks clusters stretch along this coast and appear like tall rough buildings, we heard how the blinded Cyclops threw these rocks at Odysseus as he fleed from Mt Etna where Cyclops lives in a cave. 

After Aci Castello I then viewed a seafront appartment down the coast 3mins in Aci Trezza, it was a large, one level place & our front yard was a protected Sea Reserve for diving/ snorkelling. The down side was parking... 12 dwellings with 5-6 parks. Huhh, it will make for lively encounters & more Italian learning

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There were four wooden platforms set up over the black volcanic rocks outside, leading us down to the sea. The kids were quick to spy their rock pools, and were sold on where we would stay for the next 8months.

Get there

The flight 



We made use of every kg of baggage allowance that our airline Cathay Pacific granted. Those bags were chocca – even the 2dollar shop one's that we'd double layered. Fortunately this time we flew we could have one child each and the small prescribed antihistamine bottle of promethazine… stayed intact. Milan & Carlos were a huge credit to us, Milan still has a great nact for putting her Papa to sleep, the sweet talking and face strokes worked a treat. Auckland -Hong Kong -Rome -

Thirty five hours later we had arrived in Catania, in our haste we hadn't made it clear to the club our date and time of arrival.. and so we spent another 3 hours unnecessarily in an airport,... huuuh. In Catania there's a 10 hour time difference with New Zealand, so essentially we are their opposite.

The kids were struggling at the end, .. a perfect time get our Gelato's on! Fragola, Anana's, Pistachio – Superb ..we'd arrived.

The accomodation

While more permanent living options were being vacated - other players were in hotels til others holiday makers left town & our places became available in their off season a reminder of weather to come -rugby being a winter sport... We were taken to a Pensione -B&B at the foot of Mt Etna. It was attached to a well maintained aristocratic Villa. A kind ex-player was a great-grandson of the original Salvatore Bella Vista. They grew olives, fig trees, citrus of every kind and were a venue for weddings. We explored the surroundings and we found mammoth ants, small lizards  & hospitable locals.

Straight to Speedo's for Carlos

The Mt Etna

She's the tallest, largest active volcano in Europe – weve already seen how active she is... steam & ash emissions happened the first week of arrival. In past adventurers have been killed getting a good view at the top and been surprised by a 'burp/'belches' – volcanic explosion. This is super fascinating to Milan – her big cousins have made a a number of volcano's with her, the old playdough, tube, baking soda & red food colouring.  To live beneath an active Volcano has taken some explaining. In 1669 it destroyed Catania, then eruptions in 1971, 1992, 2001 & 2003 have kept residents & travellers weary. Our tickets were booked well before I did any form of research!

The repeat

It feels like a few days ago that we left home in Hamilton New Zealand. Though its now been almost seven weeks, oouuch. Having had no internet and international phone line we've been shabby communicators. This Blog I hope will inform our loved ones & other interested folk on our journey

La nostra seconda volta in Italia . Our first time in Italy we relished the experience, hence the repeat, I recorded very little. This I expect (dont hold me to it)will contain our discoveries of Silician food, sights, history & family life – as we parent and play in Sicily.

A friends Pirate & Fairies Party days before we flew out

Milan's kindy farewell, later we strung a pinata up and she shared a Kiss (Herseys) with all her kindy buddies

Who know's whether it was the knowing Milan was set to commence school in a year or hearing that marriages often had a real 'itch' at seven years. More likely it was the knowledge that working life would remain, though your playing year's would'nt. He gave long consideration to accepting another rugby contract living & playing in Italy, then he presented it. Sicily's - East coast, in less than a month, for 8 months. One half of me thought Yeooow!! the other half was of loss. Raising kids in Hamilton- NZ as a stay at home mum rocks, spending time with other like minded mum's has been the best. We shared in the feeling of a little boy Sabir at Milan's kindergarten with very little english told her 'I will miss you everyday'. We share that same sentiment of our loved ones in NZ.

Just few of their Nordstrom Cousins - all enjoying hearty servings of Grans apple sponge & chocolate self saucing pudding x

In a super short time frame our involvement in work, church & kindergarten had to be wrapped up ... tidily. Good tenants were found for the house, our VISA's sought, however this would involve - Mr Richie the gate keeper to our sporting VISA. He is the Italian consulate to New Zealand and the only one that's able to grant these VISA's. We require this to legally stay longer than the 3months allowed with a NZ passport. This man is what Italian would call ...che bruttano!! we've dealt with him before. He granted it only days before we flew out, che bruttano!! but now we are able to apply for our permiso de signorio - pemission to stay, Yeoow!!.